A battery won't cut this bill's delivery charge
This rate has no demand charge. A battery sold on demand savings saves nothing here.
kWh Cost Calculator: What You Actually Pay Per kWh
Free kWh cost calculator. Divide your bill total by the kWh it delivered to get the price per kWh you actually pay, including delivery, the customer charge and taxes. Not the rate printed on the bill.
Every other kWh calculator asks for your usage and the rate printed on your bill, multiplies them, and hands the answer back. The arithmetic is correct and the answer is wrong, because the printed rate is not the price you pay.
This one runs the division instead. Your bill total, over the kilowatt-hours it delivered. That is the only cost per kWh that survives contact with the actual bill.
Why the printed rate is not what you pay
An electricity bill has two halves that most people never separate.
The supply half is the energy itself, and it carries the rate people quote. It is the number a supplier advertises, the number on the price comparison sites, and the number you can change by switching suppliers.
The delivery half is everything else: getting the electricity to you, the fixed customer charge, the meter, taxes, and any riders your utility has in effect. It is set by a tariff filed with the state regulator. No supplier can change it and no amount of shopping will move it.
The printed rate describes only the first half. On a real ComEd residential bill we reconciled, the total came to 18.52 cents per kWh all in, which is far above the supply rate printed on the same page. Nothing was wrong with that bill. The gap is simply the half of the bill the advertised rate does not describe.
That is why switching suppliers so often fails to lower a bill by anything like the advertised difference. The saving applies to a fraction of the total, and the rest was never in play.
How to calculate cost per kWh
Two numbers, both on the bill:
Cost per kWh = total amount due / kilowatt-hours used
Multiply by 100 to read it in cents rather than dollars.
Use the amount due for the service period, not the balance forward and not a total that includes arrears from a previous month. Use the kWh for that same period. If the two do not describe the same dates, the answer is meaningless.
If you also enter the rate printed on your bill, the calculator shows what share of your actual cost that number accounts for. For most residential bills it is well under three quarters.
What a normal answer looks like
There is no single right figure, because it depends on your utility, your rate class and how much you used. But the shape is consistent:
- A low-usage month produces a high cost per kWh. The customer charge is fixed, so spreading it over fewer kilowatt-hours raises the average. A vacant month can read alarmingly high without anything being wrong.
- A high-usage month produces a lower cost per kWh, for the same reason in reverse.
- A commercial bill with a demand charge behaves differently again, because part of the bill is priced on peak kilowatts rather than energy at all. One short spike can raise your cost per kWh without you using a single extra unit.
If your bill has a line priced in kW rather than kWh, that is a demand charge, and it deserves its own arithmetic.
How Much Does It Cost to Run an Appliance?
Once you have your all-in rate, pricing one device is three numbers and that rate. The device cost calculator sits beneath the kWh cost calculator above, and after a bill read it is filled with the all-in rate from that bill.
Cost = (watts / 1,000) x hours run x cents per kWh / 100
Dividing the watts by 1,000 converts to kilowatts, because electricity is billed in kilowatt-hours: one kilowatt drawn for one hour. Multiply by the hours it actually runs to get kilowatt-hours consumed, then by your price per kilowatt-hour to get dollars.
Two places this goes wrong before the rate even enters:
- Hours running, not hours plugged in. A fridge is switched on 24 hours a day and drawing power for perhaps 8 of them. A thermostat-controlled heater cycles. If you use switched-on hours for a device that cycles, you will overstate the cost by a wide margin.
- Watts, not amps. If the nameplate gives amps and volts, multiply them. 12 amps at 120 volts is 1,440 watts.
The rate is where every other device calculator goes wrong. The per-kWh part of delivery, taxes and riders is charged on the same kilowatt-hours the device consumed, so pricing it at the advertised supply rate describes an incomplete bill, not a cheaper device. Take a 1,500 watt space heater running 4 hours a day, every day: 6 kWh a day and 2,190 kWh a year. At the 18.52 cents per kWh all in from the reconciled ComEd residential bill above, that is $405.59 a year, or $1.11 on each day it runs. At an advertised supply rate of 8.44 cents the same heater reads $184.84 a year, which understates it by $220.75. If you leave the device calculator's rate blank it uses that same 18.52 cents, and the result says it is an assumption rather than a measurement of your account.
Hours do more of the work than watts. A 50 watt device that never switches off consumes 438 kWh a year, about $81 at the same rate, from a nameplate thirty times smaller than the heater's. That always-on floor is invisible to a single-device calculator; reading it takes the meter's own record, which is what interval meter data is for.
What this calculator does not do
It does not tell you whether your rate is good, because that requires the offers available to you, which vary by address and change monthly. It does not project a saving. It does not recommend a supplier, and there is nothing here to buy.
It tells you one thing accurately: what a kilowatt-hour cost you last month, all in. If you want the bill itself taken apart line by line and checked against the filed tariff, that is what the bill reader does.